How to Actually Stay Warm When Fishing This Autumn & Winter

Last weekend I spent a worryingly satisfying couple of hours bleeding all our radiators!

It's that time of year again, when the evenings are drawing in and we need to check that our central heating is actually working.

Within fly fishing, there is a 'central heating' equivalent - and that's the subject of today's pretty lengthy missive - so get comfy and read on McDuff ...

Please Note: This email is purely informational and informative, there are no buttons to click, and I'm not trying to sell you anything - that's for tomorrow evening's email - we've something really cool (warm) which I've been using and now cannot live without, both on and off the water!

How to Actually Stay Warm When Fly Fishing This Autumn & Winter

Today I want to talk about something we all pretend doesn't matter until we're two hours into a session and can't feel our fingers anymore.

I'll be honest - I've got this spectacularly wrong more times than I care to admit.

That grayling session on the Derwent when I wore too many thick layers under my waders and spent the entire day wading through ice-cold water whilst simultaneously sweating and freezing. Fun times.

So after years of trial, error, and the odd bout of mild hypothermia (I jest ... mostly), here's what I've learned about staying comfortable when the temperature drops and the best fishing begins.

The Foundation: It All Starts at Your Feet

Let me tell you something that changed everything for me: Merino wool socks.

Not just any socks - proper Merino wool ones. Yes, they're more expensive, but they're worth every penny. The difference is genuinely remarkable.

Here's why they work: Merino wool regulates temperature brilliantly, wicks moisture away from your skin, and - crucially - still insulates even when damp. Which, let's be honest, is sometimes going to happen when you're wading.

A good pair means you can fish for three, four, even five hours before the cold really starts creeping in. And once your feet are cold, you're done - the rest of you follows pretty quickly.

My routine now: I always keep a spare pair in my bag. If I'm planning a long day, I'll actually change socks at lunch. Sounds excessive, but it's like hitting a reset button on your warmth levels.

The Layering Game (And Why Most of Us Get It Wrong)

Right, layering. We all know we're supposed to do it, but here's where it gets interesting - especially when dealing with rivers versus stillwaters.

For river fishing (and wading), the challenge is: you need enough layers to stay warm, but not so many that you're restricted or sweating inside your waders.

Sweat = Moisture = Cold

The magic number for me is three layers under waders:

1. A thin base layer (wicks moisture)
2. A mid-layer for insulation (something packable and thermal - more on this shortly)
3. The waders themselves

That middle layer is key. Warm enough to actually work, but not so bulky you're fighting with it every cast. Ideally, it should pack down small so you can stuff it in your bag if/when you warm up.

For stillwater fishing, you've got more freedom, but you're also more static. Standing on a bank in November, you'll need MORE insulation than you think.

On stillwaters, I go with four layers - adding a fleece and waterproof outer on top of those first two layers.

The beauty of a packable thermal layer is its adjustability. Start cold at dawn? Wear it. Warming up by mid-morning? Stuff it in your bag - it takes up barely any room.

The Extremities: Hands, Head, and Neck

Here's something daft: I spent years investing in expensive waders and rods, but fished with cheap gloves and no proper hat. Then wondered why I was always cold.

Hands: Fingerless gloves are your friend. You need dexterity for tying knots, but you also need protection from wind chill. Keep the proper waterproof gloves in your bag for really bitter days.

Head: You lose a surprising amount of heat through your head. A decent beanie makes a massive difference. I prefer something that's labelled Thinsulate which covers my ears.

Neck: A buff or neck warmer is criminally underrated. The difference is remarkable. Plus, on really cold days, you can pull it up over your nose and mouth.

The Temperature Test: A Simple Rule

Here's my rule of thumb: when you first step outside in your fishing layers (before you start moving), you should feel slightly cold. Not freezing, but definitely on the chilly side.

Why? Because once you start moving - walking, wading, casting - you're going to warm up. If you feel toasty warm while standing still, you've overdone it. You'll be sweating within 20 minutes.

Exception: if you're fishing a stillwater and plan to be mostly static, err on the side of warmth.

The Packability Factor (This Matters More Than You Think)

One of the biggest game-changers has been investing in layers that pack down small.

Why? Because the weather changes. Your body temperature fluctuates throughout the day. What feels right at 8am is too much by 11am, and not enough again by 3pm.

If your mid-layer packs down to roughly the size of a large apple, you can actually carry it without it taking over your bag. This means adjusting as the day goes on, rather than being committed to your morning outfit for six hours.

For wading, you can wear it under your waders when you first get in, then take it off and stuff it in your fishing bag if you warm up. Try doing that with a bulky fleece.

Stillwater vs River: The Key Differences

One of the biggest game-changers has been investing in layers that pack down small.

Stillwater Fishing:

• You're more static (standing, waiting, watching)
• You're likely on the bank (more flexibility with layers)
• You can wear bulkier clothing
• You need more insulation - you're not moving as much
• You cool down quickly in still, cold air

River Fishing:

• You're moving more (wading, walking between pools)
• You're often in the water (waders doing heavy lifting)
• You need less bulk under waders
• Wind chill on exposed rivers is a factor
• You warm up from the activity

Understanding this difference helps me pack the right gear. There's nothing worse than turning up to a stillwater in November wearing river kit and realising you're going to be standing still for hours.

It's The Little Things That All Add Up

Hand warmers: Those little pocket heat packs are brilliant. Slip one into each wader pocket for somewhere to warm your hands between casts.

Thermal flask: A hot drink makes a psychological difference as much as a physical one. Wrapping your hands around a warm mug at lunchtime is genuinely therapeutic.

Spare dry layers in the car: Always have a spare fleece or jumper. If you get wet or just colder than expected, having something dry to change into at the end is a godsend.

Start warm: Make sure you're warm when you START fishing. It's much easier to maintain warmth than to build it back up once you're cold.

The Bottom Line

Look, we're all different. What keeps me comfortable might leave you freezing or sweating. But the principles are the same: good socks, smart layering, and the ability to adjust as the day progresses.

The goal isn't to be immune to the cold - we're fishing in a British autumn and winter, after all. The goal is to be comfortable enough that the cold isn't cutting your session short - some of the best fishing happens when most people have packed their gear away until spring.

Tomorrow evening, I'll be sharing something that's solved a lot of these layering challenges for me - particularly that tricky "warm enough but not too bulky" problem - but more on that tomorrow at 6pm.

For now, if you're heading out this weekend: good Merino socks, smart layers, and a thermal mid-layer that packs small.

You'll thank me when you're still fishing three hours in and your mates are in the car with the heater on.

Until tomorrow at 6pm (ish) ... Tight lines

P.S. If you really can't resist buying a few flies from us, these are the ones that are working well at the moment on both rivers and stillwaters:

The Artisan Daddy Selection

£22.00 £25.80

The Tungsten Peacock Herl Selection

£24.00 £28.80

Diawl Bach Selection

£22.00 £28.00

The Derwent Worm Selection

£22.00 £25.80