Not too long to wait now ...
As the opening of the new trout season draws ever closer, my thoughts turn away from Grayling and are redirected towards those beautiful wild trout of the Yorkshire Derwent - and the 'tackle tart' within me reaches for the glossy catalogues which drop through the letterbox on a daily bases, in the hunt for even more gear to hide from my wife - you'd be amazed at how many order we deliver to work addresses!
If I were to select just one item of equipment that I think has rekindled my passion for fishing our local small streams, it’s the use of a silk line - I’ve found nothing better for presenting small flies on long light leaders, and it really does put the ‘art’ back into casting.
I started on my own 'silk route' a few years ago and it has completely changed the way I feel about my fly fishing.
Don't get me wrong, I still love plumbing the depths with nymphs for Grayling, but when it comes to dry fly fishing on small streams I instinctively reach for my silk line - the presentation is so much better, and it just makes me feel much happier! They are also very simple to care for (see below).
Don't think that to get the best out of a silk line you need a cane rod - just try one on a medium-action carbon rod (I usually go for one of my Scott G-Series rods) or better still a glass rod - there really is nothing better.
I'm sure that at some point in your fly fishing odyssey you may have contemplated using a silk line, if so:
Read on McDuff ...
What better way to prepare for the upcoming season than with a new silk line, especially when said line is made right here in the UK, in Sheffield to be precise - by a guy called Ian.
These silk lines have been designed and made with a 'fine tip' and built-in loops which effectively means they have a very thin 'built-in' furled leader, so you just attach a level piece of tippet to the end.
Ok, so why should I use a silk line then?
We're glad you asked:
- They have no memory - completely limp
- There's no stretch - improved hookups
- They are denser than plastic fly lines and therefore much thinner, and thinner lines mean much less wind resistance
- They float better than plastic fly lines - they float on the water surface, not in it, making roll casts and mending line much easier
- You get 3 lines in one; When fully greased it's a floating line, grease everything except the tip and you have a midge-tip line, don't grease it and you have an intermediate/sinking line
- They can (and do) last a lifetime - so long as they are cared for and stored correctly, a silk line can last a lifetime - and indeed will get better with age
We've just received a parcel here @ Barbless Flies HQ - direct from Ian in Sheffield and it's full of his silk fly lines - we've now got these stunning full-length silk lines in the most popular weights (DT3, DT4 & DT5) all in the most popular Light Straw colour.
Note: Ian's even sent us a few special DT4 lines which have been made with 10% Kevlar (making it virtually unbreakable) they don't need any special treatment and will last a lifetime. I'm also reliably informed by Ian that even the most experienced silk line aficionado would not be able to tell the difference!
Each of our Silk lines are sent with a microfibre cloth (to clean/help dry them) and full line care instructions.
These lines are made in the UK (in Sheffield, Yorkshire), by Ian Moxon and are great value for money, these fully finished lines are now available for immediate delivery, and still from only £99.99 - which for a silk line is outstanding value.
*** We've only 3 or 4 of each weight of line - and no more stock arriving until June, so if you would like one for the beginning of the season, grab yours today ***
Please Note: We do realise that silk lines may be very new to some of you, and you will have some questions. Please either reply to this email, or give me (or Jack) a call on 0330 66 00 587 and I will answer them as best I can.
A Message from Iam Moxon (the maker) about traditionally made Silk Fly Lines:
"My new silk fly lines are usually a bit stiff and a bit rough to start with (and that is normal for a properly made silk fly line). The line will become softer and more supple over the course of the first half dozen fishing trips and nothing should be done to try and accelerate that process. Before each fishing trip apply a thin layer of line grease. After your fishing trip pull the line off your reel in loose coils into a cardboard box to dry (or put onto a line dryer if you have one). Never grease a wet silk fly line as that will trap the moisture inside and prompt rot. Occasionally a silk line will become sticky/tacky for no apparent reason (usually due to old line grease/residue) and if that happens wipe the line down with white spirit."
"All my line are made from unbleached raw natural reeled silk (reeled silk is the best grade of silk followed by spun silk and then bourette). The raw silk goes through the following processes - skein washing (to remove the serracin, also known as degumming), dying if applicable, bobbin winding (various deniers), braiding (tapers are constructed by braiding), loose ends trimmed and burnt, vacuum impregnation with traditional varnish (essentially linseed oil and natural resins - various coats), polishing, leader loops added, weighed and measured and finally coiled up."
"Because my lines are constructed in the old tradition way, there my be some very small lumps / bumps and small cosmetic marks. However, each line has been inspected inch by inch (by me) and no lines go out which won't cast well and catch fish. As with any maker's traditional silk fly lines, they always become softer and smoother over the course of the first half-dozen fishing trips and nothing should be done to try and accelerate that break-in process. All those lines have very fine tapered tips and my own micro braided leader loops attached."
"With care your silk fly line should last your whole lifetime."
Ian Moxon; 2026
*** We've only 3 or 4 of each weight of line - and no more stock arriving until June, so if you would like one, grab yours now ***
Tight (silk) lines.
